PARIS (AP) — Just how many ways can Christian Dior designer John Galliano find to reinvent the label’s fabled Bar jacket? Judging from Friday’s spring-summer 2010 ready-to-wear show — in which he morphed a hard-boiled private detective’s trench coat into an elegantly cinched Bar — Galliano has plenty more tricks up his sleeve.
This time around, Galliano looked to film noir for inspiration for a collection heavy on lingerie and long, lean 1940s gowns given a sexy edge by translucent paneling.
Satin slips and little lace-edged shorties were — literally — the collection’s foundation: Models with fire-engine-red lips wore the abbreviated waspwaisted Bar trenches in buttery camel leather over tiny satin slips. One model, in sky-high platforms worn with Lurex socks, showed off a wrap dress that looked like it had been Lauren Bacall’s dressing gown in a previous life.
The gowns that closed the show — slinky satin numbers in shocking pink, orange and purple — amped up the screen siren factor. A particular standout was an ankle-length gown in supple red satin from the waist down and sheer tulle through the bust.
And because it was Dior, accessories — a major cash-cow for the luxury group — featured prominently. Though they were wearing but the slightest of slips, many models carried structured briefcase totes that meant serious business. In keeping with the collection’s hard-boiled theme, little metal guns dangled from the bags’ handles.
Galliano, dressed like a very sophisticated Sam Spade, closed the show with his trademark puff-chested strut, disappearing into a think film noir fog.