Galliano gives Dior's Bar jacket a film noir twist
A model presents a creation by British fashion designer John Galliano for Dior's Ready to Wear Spring Summer 2010 fashion collection, presented in Paris Friday Oct. 2, 2009. AP Photo JACQUES BRINON

PARIS (AP) — Just how many ways can Christian Dior designer John Galliano find to reinvent the label’s fabled Bar jacket? Judging from Friday’s spring-summer 2010 ready-to-wear show — in which he morphed a hard-boiled private detective’s trench coat into an elegantly cinched Bar — Galliano has plenty more tricks up his sleeve.

This time around, Galliano looked to film noir for inspiration for a collection heavy on lingerie and long, lean 1940s gowns given a sexy edge by translucent paneling.

Satin slips and little lace-edged shorties were — literally — the collection’s foundation: Models with fire-engine-red lips wore the abbreviated waspwaisted Bar trenches in buttery camel leather over tiny satin slips. One model, in sky-high platforms worn with Lurex socks, showed off a wrap dress that looked like it had been Lauren Bacall’s dressing gown in a previous life.

The gowns that closed the show — slinky satin numbers in shocking pink, orange and purple — amped up the screen siren factor. A particular standout was an ankle-length gown in supple red satin from the waist down and sheer tulle through the bust.

And because it was Dior, accessories — a major cash-cow for the luxury group — featured prominently. Though they were wearing but the slightest of slips, many models carried structured briefcase totes that meant serious business. In keeping with the collection’s hard-boiled theme, little metal guns dangled from the bags’ handles.

Galliano, dressed like a very sophisticated Sam Spade, closed the show with his trademark puff-chested strut, disappearing into a think film noir fog.

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